Just because the news is full of doom and gloom doesn’t mean the catwalks need to be. Spirits were high at Milan Fashion Week as the designers showed us that Autumn/Winter 11-12 is about having fun, with some very distinctive results.
Dolce and Gabbana went back to the 1980s. Masculine tailoring dominated as the Dolce girl took on the male guise of the eighties mod. Drop crotch pants and waistcoats featured heavily as did other styling traits associated with tailoring like braces and pointy-toed brogues.
Star motifs printed onto billowing chiffon added a lighter note whilst the fabric’s see-through quality alluded to the brand’s signature sex appeal.
The biggest suprise? The reinvention of the bumbag with mini handbags attached to waist cinching belts.
Pucci discovered the glories of Goya and the Baroque. The mood was rich yet dark with a flavour of something magical like an enchanted forest at midnight, half aglow with fairy dust.
Colours were rich and brooding: bottle greens and winey reds enlivened with accents of vivid sky blue. Fabrics played to the darker mood with opulent velvets and devore patterns, elaborate embellishments and precious skins of suede and alligator.
The silhouette was a sensual one with glimpse of lacy bra and cleavage lifted to the moon.
The fun factor in an otherwise heady collection came in the form of suede lederhosen. Austrian folk dressing was touched upon in the autumn/winter 10-11 ranges so this could be a look that’s set to take hold. Lederhosen may be the new harem pant.
Milan wouldn’t be Milan without Prada and Muiccia was at her creative best. Sixties-style, shift dresses shaped the collection with dropped waists and mini hemlines. Oversized, plaid prints added playful colour whilst asymmetric plackets and big buttons added quirkiness. Young, fun and I’m so glad this is fashion!
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